General Overview of Gopher Trapping

Comparing Gopher Control Methods

• Poison Baits Using toxic bait (usually laced with strychnine or anticoagulant poisons) is a commonly used method to kill gophers. In large open fields with heavy infestations, poison grain baits can be the most economical way to knock down the population. However, poison has major drawbacks. It can be dangerous to handle and poses risks to other animals. Gophers often die underground days or weeks later, which means you might not immediately know if it worked, and the gopher could continue damaging plants in the meantime. There’s also the chance of secondary poisoning – if a poisoned gopher is eaten by a predator like an owl or pet dog, that animal can be poisoned as well. Because of these hazards, toxic baits are generally not recommended for home landscapes. Many regions have restrictions on gopher poisons due to environmental concerns. In summary, poison can work, but it must be used very carefully (often by licensed professionals), and it’s not a targeted or eco-friendly solution. We stand by our craftsmanship, offering lifetime warranty gopher traps to all our customers.
• Fumigation (Gas Bombs or Exhaust) Gas cartridges (sometimes called “gopher bombs”) or piping car exhaust into tunnels is another method. These aim to asphyxiate gophers in their burrows. Unfortunately, fumigation is often not very effective for gophers. If the soil is dry or porous, the gas dissipates into the soil without killing the gopher. Gophers are clever and may detect the fumes, quickly walling off that section of the tunnel with soil. Car exhaust has been tried as well. It can work if done right, but modern cars’ emissions are much cleaner (less carbon monoxide), so they don’t produce a lethal dose as older cars did. Fumigation also carries risks to the user and anything else in the vicinity (the cartridges produce smoke and sometimes fire risk). Overall, gas methods are hit-or-miss and not recommended as a primary solution.
• Flooding Some people attempt to flood gopher tunnels with a garden hose. The idea is to drown the gopher or force it out. In practice, flooding rarely kills a gopher unless you happen to trap it in a low spot. Gopher tunnel systems are extensive and have multiple chambers; the animals often just retreat to higher ground or quickly seal off tunnels to avoid the water. You can waste a lot of water for little effect. Plus, in many areas, water is too precious to use this way, and you could inadvertently damage your own yard by saturating it. Flood irrigation in agriculture can drive gophers away from actively flooded fields, but in a typical yard, flooding is not an efficient or practical control.
• Predators and Natural Enemies Gophers have many natural predators—owls, hawks, snakes, coyotes, cats, and dogs all hunt them. Some homeowners put up owl nesting boxes or perches to encourage raptors, hoping they’ll catch gophers. While predators do catch some gophers, they rarely eliminate the entire population. Predators move around to where prey is plentiful, so they won’t reliably protect a single yard. You also can’t count on your pet cat or dog to catch gophers; some do, but most gophers stay underground out of reach. Predators are helpful as part of the ecosystem, but if you have an active infestation, you can’t afford to wait for an owl to solve it. Immediate action is usually needed.
• Repellents and Plants There are various folk remedies like castor oil repellents, ultrasonic noise stakes, or planting “gopher purge” (Euphorbia) plants claimed to repel gophers. Unfortunately, no repellent has proven effective in scientific trials. Studies and field experience show that things like castor bean plants, garlic, or noise devices do not reliably keep gophers away. Gophers may shy away briefly, but they often ignore these once they realize it doesn’t truly harm them. At best, repellents provide a false sense of security; at worst, they waste time while the gophers continue breeding. It’s better to use methods that actively remove the gophers.
• Exclusion Barriers For small areas like vegetable gardens or flowerbeds, you can physically keep gophers out by burying barriers. This usually means digging a trench around the area and lining it with wire mesh (hardware cloth) or sheet metal, down to about 2–3 feet deep and sticking up a foot above ground. Barriers can work – gophers won’t penetrate metal mesh if installed correctly. However, exclusion is labor-intensive and costly for anything beyond a small bed. It’s impractical to surround an entire lawn or large garden with underground fencing. Gophers might also burrow under very deep barriers occasionally or simply move to the enclosed area if one accidentally gets inside. Use exclusion for special small zones (like protecting roots of a rare tree or a raised planter box), but it’s not a whole-yard solution.
• Trapping Trapping is widely considered the most effective and practical gopher control method, especially on small properties or for moderate infestations. Trapping involves placing special gopher traps in the tunnel system to capture and kill the gopher. Unlike poisons or gas, trapping gives immediate results – when you catch the gopher, you know it, and it’s removed from the system. Many agricultural extensions and experts agree that trapping is the single most effective method for controlling pocket gophers in home landscapes. Traps, when used properly, have a high success rate and avoid many of the risks that come with poisons.

Summary of Control Methods

• Poison and fumigants can sometimes cover large areas but come with safety risks and uncertainties.
• Other methods like flooding, repellents, or relying on predators are generally unreliable.
• Trapping, on the other hand, is targeted, immediately effective, and safer for the environment and your family.